Information Manual

Manual For Advanced Coloration

Professional Hair color

Why 3 different Natural series:

Stylists see color in different ways based on which color line they use.

Advanced Coloration comprises three natural series.

The first series is the more N (neutral one).

Our NW Series is for people who are used to warmer color lines like French color lines.

Our NA series comprises cooler collections, for people who like to see ashier results like those of German color line users.

We also have the double N (NN Series) series which includes double pigmented colors for hard-to-cover gray (the swatch for the NN series is the same as the N series swatch)

HOW TO FORMULATE ADVANCED COLORATION:

Find your client’s natural level by matching 1 of the swatches to their hair. If client’s hair is between two levels, then choose the darker level.
Choose your target color from the swatch book. Depending on your target color and the client’s natural level, mix and process as follows:

MIXING	PROCESSING
1 level of lift – mix 10-volume	20 min (or longer for full deposit)
2 levels of lift – mix 20-volume	35 min
3 levels of lift – mix 30-volume	40 min
4 levels of lift – mix 40-volume	45 min

Let’s discuss how important it is to choose the right developer.

As we know, the developer is the lifting agent in professional hair color processing and, most of the time, when somebody gets a warmer result than they expected, this is due to the wrong choice of developer.

Let’s explore this further, but first we need to understand the base in Advanced Coloration.

Advanced coloration professional hair color has different bases in every level.

For example, in level 5 we have a green base. Take a quick look at the RPC chart below. It shows that as we get the hair lighter and reach level 5, the remaining pigment would be red.

Now, the color wheel shows that green counteracts red.

So, we have added a specified amount of green to our level 5 shades to counteract red and achieve the target color.

For example, in 5NA (Natural Ash), we have more green and much less in 5G (Gold) but no green in 5R (red).

We have a blue green base in level 6 and a blue base in level 7.

Looking at the RPC chart above, we notice that the remaining pigment in level 7 is orange and the color wheel shows that the opposite of orange is blue. Therefore, we have the necessary amount of blue in our level seven to achieve the target color; and in level 9 violet cancels yellow, so we use violet in level 9.

It is important to know that all of our color covers gray, so you use the N series because that is the color you want, not because you must use it to cover gray. In fact, adding N to your mixture changes your target color. Here is an example below:

In most color lines if a client comes in with 50% gray, you would use 50% natural series and 50% Your target color. The result would be somewhere in between the two colors, which means that you do not have a swatch to show your client the end result.

In the case of Advanced Coloration professional hair color you are not forced to add the natural series to your formula and muddy up your result. Moreover, also thanks to having a correct base in each level you do not have to add any other color to achieve your target color. Actually our swatch book is your best friend and we want you to show it to your clients; as long as you use the right developer you should get the result that would match the swatch book.

Now, let’s go back to the importance of the choosing the correct developer.

As we lift the hair to a lighter color we end up with different remaining pigments in each level.

For example, taking somebody from a level 4 to a level 7 requires 30 Volume developer. However, if we do not take a page out of swatch book and match it to the client’s hair to correctly figure out their level to start with, we will have a warmer result than we want. Therefore, let’s say we did not match the swatch book to the hair and just guessed their level to level 5 so we would use a 20 volume. A 20 volume developer would lift the hair from level 4 to level 6 and from the previous discussion we know we need to have a blue green base color to counteract the RPC in level 6. Since we have level 7 color (blue base) with 20 volume, the result would be much warmer than what our target color was.

Now, in this case the majority of colorists would think that they need to add green to the formula or use an ash base color to achieve their target color. In fact, all they have to do is use a higher volume peroxide to get the hair lighter to deposit the target color with the correct base (in this case level 7 blue).

When a stylist states that a color line is too ashy or too warm that shows lack of understanding; in fact you can get cool or warm results with any color line depending on your knowledge.

We have 6 different developers which are all stabilized with delay initial oxidation.

Delay oxidation technology will not allow the color to oxidize in a container when exposed to open air.

Stabilization is a very important part of our developers. With an unstabilized developer, as you open the top and close it or leave the top open for a while, you will lose strength. A 20 volume, based on how many times you have opened the top and closed it, could become 12 volume, so you could have a great result with a client but next time they come in and you use the peroxide from the end of the bottle, you will have a different result due to strength loss.

Our peroxides are stabilized and even in the event you leave the top open for a while they still keep their strength. Now, let’s explain usage.

1-Italian Gloss (3.5 volume), our 3.5 volume peroxide, which contains shine enhancer, can be used on damaged hair to add shine and conditioner. Please note that the shine will be deposited inside the hair and will last for weeks.

When you desire no lift on the root and want to add shine or tone the hair you will use our Italian glosser with your target color to achieve true demi-permanent color.

Our 7 volume developer is used for toning and permanent depositing color on the ends.

10 volume to lift the hair one level is also great for gray coverage.

The higher volume of peroxide will not cause more damage than lower volume peroxide.

In fact, neither one will cause damage to the hair, so do not try to use a lower peroxide when you really need to lift the hair.

When using color lines with higher ammonia or MEA content, it is true that a higher volume of peroxide will cause some damage but not with Advanced Coloration that contains less than ½ percent ammonia.

Important Note:

Advanced Coloration has less than 0.5% ammonia. The color will stop processing after 30 minutes, so leaving the color on longer than the recommended processing time will not damage the hair. The color will not process darker than the target color because our ammonia will dissipate in less than 30 minutes and that will stop the processing. Higher ammonia color lines will continue processing for up to 4 hours. Color lines that claim to be “ammonia free” use an ammonia substitute in liquid form (MEA) that can stay in the hair for up to 2 weeks after the color service.

It is important to know we need all of our ammonia to reach the ph of 8.5 and therefore,

Heat will cause our ammonia to dissipate faster. Heat is okay in other color lines since they have 3-4% ammonia. Even in the event that they lose half of their ammonia, they still have enough to deposit.

Hi Lifts:

We have four different shades. They are used in two different ways and have slightly more ammonia. They are also designed to lift the hair to the highest possible level with control of unwanted color tones.

Color usually lifts up to four levels depending on texture and diameter of the hair.

In very course hair usually you will achieve a little over 3 ¼ levels of lift but in fine hair you are able to lift to about 4 levels.

We mix our hi lifts with 3 parts 40 volume and one part color. Our recommendation is to use the hi lifts when the hair is level seven or lighter to achieve a beautiful blonde.

The second usage of the hi lift is when you have a client who has blond highlights with some yellow in them. To tone down that yellow and add shine and condition to the hair, use one of our hi lifts: mix two parts Italian Gloss with one part color and process for 5 to 10 minutes .

You also can use the hi lift on blondes in between highlights.

Example: Four weeks after receiving the highlights, the client’s roots look dark. Therefore, you simply apply the hi lift with two parts 7 volume on the root for 20-25 minutes and run it through the ends for 5 minutes. The result would be that all of the roots will blend with the ends and the client will look as though she has just highlighted her hair.

Specialty Colors:

JOKER: A special Booster that has slightly higher ammonia content than other colors in the line (still less than 1%). It can be mixed by adding up to 1/5 of formula in a mixture to open the cuticle a bit more for resistant hair or to lighten a shade up to a ¼ of a level.

TONER: Can be added into color formulas level 9 or 10 to neutralize any unwanted gold tones.

Example: add toner to 9N or 10N for ashier results.

ICE: A great toner that is used to achieve platinum blond.

Mode of use: Bleach the client to a pale yellow and apply ice with two parts 7 volume to achieve a platinum result. If you leave it too long you will get a result that is more on the gray side. In this case use a shampoo cap to remove it (20 grams of our white bleach + 10 grams of shampoo + 20 grams of 20 volume)

Gray Blenders:

Dark Blender (DB) and Light Blender (LB) are used to blend gray. You can customize the usage. For more of a blending effect you may use the dark blender; and for less blending you can dilute the formula by adding the light blender to your formula.

Example: If the client’s hair is level 5 with a lot of gray, apply DB with two parts 7 volume for 20 minutes.

If you process for less than 20 minutes gray will have a blue tint so if you want less blending effect just mix half the Light Blender with half the Dark Blender.

COLOR CORRECTORS:

Can be added into formulas to boost color or to remove unwanted color.

Note: Our color correctors are not fashion colors and cannot be applied by themselves.

For example, if you want more gold in your formula, just add some yellow for more red. Add red and just add violet for more violet

For an ashier result in level 5,add 5 grams of green, and for an ashier result in level 7 add blue.

NA series as correctors:

These series are designed to counteract warmth at their level. Please pay attention to the following examples:

You have a client with hair color that looks like 6RR, 6C or 6CH and they want a more 6N result. Just apply 6NA with 7 volume for about 20 minutes. After this, you should achieve a 6N result.

You have a client with hair color that looks like 8CH, 8C or 8G and you are trying to achieve 8N. Just apply 8NA with 7 volume and watch the hair achieve your target color.

COVERING GRAY:

It is VERY important to mix our color well! More so than other color lines as we have very little ammonia. Mixing well ensures that the color will oxidize in the proper way.

SATURATION is also important since color receives oxygen from the developer and not from the air.

Remember that the color is shiny; be careful not to mistake shine for lack of coverage.

To cover gray we need a minimum of 30 minutes and no heat at least for the first 20 minutes.

In other color lines it is important to know percentage of gray and based on that, you will know how much natural to add to the formula.

In Advanced Coloration professional hair color, the percentage of gray has nothing to do with it, since we do not have to add N series to our color.

Our color covers gray with 10 volume but only when you use 20, 30 or 40 volume to lift the hair and cover the gray hair, you need to know that gray will look one level lighter.

So in 100% gray if you are using 20 volume or higher when level 5 color is applied the result would look like level 6. And, if you apply 4Gold with 20 volume and higher you will get 5Gold.

Please pay attention to the following points…

As we use two parts 20 volume and one part color we need to compensate for the extra level of lift. In order to do this we drop a level. For instance, let’s say that on 100% gray our target color is 7ch. In this case we just apply 1 part 6CH + 2 parts 20 volume and we will achieve a 7CH.

The next time when they come in we will apply the same formula to the roots and 1 part 7CH + two parts 7 volume to the ends.

When dealing with gray, imagine that you have two clients – one with 100% gray hair and one with no gray. Now, picture how color will look on the gray client and how will it look on the client with no gray in the examples below.

If the client’s natural hair is level 4 with gray (the percentage of gray makes no difference), your target color is 7G.

If we apply 20 volume and 6G, all of the dark parts of the hair will look like a 6G and the gray parts will look like 7G.

If we apply 7G with 30 volume, all the dark parts would look like 7G and the gray parts will look like 8G.

When using 10 volume to cover gray you do not need to drop a level; your results will be ½ level lighter than your target color.

Our NN series results appear a little darker than those of the N series because they are double pigmented.

Toning

When toning, just use 3.5 or 7 volume with your target color.

Glazing and Shine

To add shine to the hair, just pick a color that is one or two levels lighter than client’s hair, mix it with two part Italian Gloss and apply it for 10-20 minutes.

Note: If using 7 volume and the mix is left longer on the hair, you may notice a slight lift in the roots. In that case use our Italian shine, which is also a 3.5 volume developer.

Examples of Successful Applications:

Example 1:

A client has dark hair (5CH) that looks drab and has no shine. In this case, just apply 7CH with two parts Italian gloss. The result would be very conditioned hair with lots of shine.

Example 2:

A client has highlighted hair that looks and feels dry with no shine. In this case, apply 10N with Italian gloss; for a more “beige” look apply 7 volume with 10GV for 10 minutes.

Tint backs

Just apply your target color with 7 volume. When dealing with damaged hair fill the hair first (apply target color with no developer to all damaged parts); then, apply your target color with 7 volume.

One thing to keep in mind is NOT to pack the hair; you will have an uneven result.

Bleach

The bleach can be used on the scalp with 10 and 20 volumes, and off the scalp with 30 and 40 volumes. Our bleaches do not swell, are dust free and have minimal odor and itching. The bleach takes about 45 seconds to thicken up, so weigh with a scale to mix minimum two parts developer with one part bleach; otherwise, you will think it is not thick enough and add too much powder.

After the hair reaches a pale yellow color, it is VERY essential to spray the hair with water or rinse out the bleached hair that has lifted to the desired level.

Do not try to achieve ashier results in the hair with bleaching past this stage. Rather, when the hair reaches pale yellow use one of the toners. Please keep in mind the below pointers.

After achieving a pale yellow you need to tone with ice to get an ashier result.
You also can add up to 1/5 toner to 10N.
Finally, the third way to get these results is to use one part hi lift plus 2 parts 7 volume or Italian Gloss to add more shine.

NOTE: If you need to apply heat to our bleach you can do that only in the last 10 minutes of processing.

When foiling, heat will accelerate the evaporation of moisture from the bleach mixture and will cause an uneven lifting result.

In fact: Heat affects the lifting action in the same manner that higher volumes of peroxide would do.
 If you need to lift faster just use a higher volume of Developer.

Remember: Advanced Coloration is used as a perm, semi, and demi all in one.