Low Ammonia versus “Non Ammonia” Professional Hair Color: What are the real facts?
There is no question that there are lots of Professional Hair Color Lines that promote being “Non Ammonia “ Or “Ammonia –Free” in fact there is a great deal of publicity surrounding the issue of hair color that contains ammonia vs. hair color that is labeled “ammonia-free.” In an effort to help our clients and those searching for the correct facts we are writing it all on our blog this week, as always we at Advanced Coloration are here to provide clarification and answers to some frequently asked questions. We are in the business to teach Professional Stylists the real truth about Hair Color and Styling Products and bring healthy shiny hair to the American Consumer.
Let’s check it out?
What is Ammonia and Why is it in Hair Color?
Ammonia has long been used in permanent hair color in fact many of the formulations in Professional Color have not changed since the late1940’s early 1950’s. This is how it works: first, it sets the stage for color to penetrate the hair strand by opening up the surface (otherwise known as the cuticle) once the cuticle has been penetrated and opened the color molecule can be inserted into the hair shaft. Ammonia effectively lifts out the natural hair pigment so that the hair color molecules can penetrate and deposit (on non -previously colored hair). That’s when you see the new shade. So essentially, ammonia is largely responsible for hair color’s ability to alter hair hue and semi or permanently deposit hair color.
What is Ammonia-Free Color and How does it Work?
Color products that are labeled “ammonia free” generally contain an ammonia substitute called mono-ethanolamine or MEA. Like ammonia, MEA is effective at performing the first step of a permanent color service that of opening the cuticle. However, because the MEA molecule is 3.5 times larger than ammonia, it cannot penetrate the hair as effectively, so it might not be as efficient when it comes to lifting natural color out of the hair and depositing artificial color deep into the hair strand. Therefore, non ammonia colors may be less effective than ammonia based color when the colorist attempts to create lasting gray coverage, or the sufficient lightening required to produce exceptional light blonde or vibrant red shades. Additionally, renowned hair color expert Beth Minardi expresses, “In my experience, the MEA in hair color products can remain in hair even after the color has been removed, which can lead to progressive darkening and dulling.” We at Advanced Coloration thru our research have seen that MEA can stay in the hair up to 2 weeks and continue processing which causes the cuticle to not return to a closed position and thus dry, dull and faded color are the result.
MEA vs. Ammonia: What are the Pros and Cons?
Ammonia has a distinctive odor, and colorists and clients find the odorless nature of MEA appealing during the color application. Historically, we note that ammonia-based formulas provide long lasting color, intense vibrancy and superior gray coverage.”
Finally a true ammonia performance based hair color line does exist providing the performance of ammonia with the attractive features of low or no odor of the ammonia –free lines.
Advanced Coloration found the answer with the development of it’s low ammonia color line. It provides you the performance of the Ammonia with the benefits of no odor like MEA….the best things are that with a line like AC the color cannot process and go dark because with only a .5% ammonia it evaporates and stops processing in 30 to 40 minutes.. The Hair Cuticle will close back down and the result is VERY SHINY, Vibrant hair color. Most of clients that have used AC Color comment that they can use the color even when they could not use other brands due to itching and irritation, that is due to the fact we refine the AC Color Molecule to 99.8% eliminating many of the elements that cause irritation which is often mistakenly blamed on ammonia. AC is truly the first change providing amazing performance to the Professional Hair Color Industry in over 50 years. AC is truly HI-TECH.
For further information contact us or watch our new video series about “How Advanced Coloration Works” which is scheduled to launch on May 1st, 2012.
One last thought…Not all products advertise the truth or actually perform to the level that they claim only you can truly judge this and be an informed stylist or hair color client. We invite you to See, Feel and Experience the AC Difference for yourself.
- 10/20/2010 - About Advanced Coloration
- 10/20/2010 - Professional Hair Color Trend: Fresh Year Fresh Look